A visually balanced body, regardless of weight or height, always looks more flattering than an unbalanced one.

Creating perfect proportions can be achieved by modifying the lines of clothing. In this way you can visually e.g. widen narrow shoulders, create a longer neckline, disguise a fuller tummy or lengthen a short waist. It is possible to appear taller, shorter, heavier or thinner by making the line, style and cut work to your best advantage.

Your bodyshape, proportion, scale and body features e.g. small bust versa big bust; short versa long neck will determine which clothing line and details, such as neck-sleeve-waist-hemlines, will flatter you the most. By looking at your build objectively you will know how to dress your body and how to emphasize your advantages and hide your disadvantages. Every person has their own unique DNA, so accept your differences in build to others and see them instead as a challenge to create your own personal style.

So, for those of us who don’t have a perfectly balanced figure ( hourglass bodyshape/ upper and lower body in proportions) there are ways to give an illusion of balance. To achieve this we need to understand “line design”. A line leads the eye and can give optical illusion for our benefit.

Design lines in our garments need to complement our figure shape. So, a curvy figure looks more appealing with curvy design lines in the outfit rather than straight line, and a straight figure looks better in straight lines rather than curvy lines. All style lines need to lead towards a feature you want to emphasize, such as your waist or shoulders.

We often think that by wearing long loose jackets and tunics we will appear taller and slimmer- this is not so for everyone. A horizontal line can make us appear shorter and the nearer it is to your knees the shorter we look. For example if you are a pear shape, try on some short fitted jackets and see how much longer your legs appear and how much taller and slimmer you look. In many cases loose flowing garments will achieves the opposite by adding pounds instead of slimming our silhouette.

1. Body Balance rules in general

Do’s

• For your body to look balanced your shoulders need to appear balanced with hips and thighs.
• Wear garment design lines to complement your figure shape
• To balance a long waist wear a belt, a wrap, Empire line, details to shorten it
• To balance a short waist be choosy and careful with wearing fuzz and buzz such as belts, bows, highlighted Empire lines- less is better or even none of it.
• Wear a tone in tone outfit to give the illusion of height.
• Break the colour when you are tall

Don’ts

• Avoid jacket hems finishing at your widest point e.g. hips or thighs. Your best length is above or below this level.
• Avoid skirt/dress hems finishing at your widest point e.g. calves, unless you have very thin legs.

2.A few balance rules to:

A. Small Bust

• Add details around neck and bust line e.g. necktie, cowl neckline, ruffles, pockets, prints, layers, scarves, dropped sleeve line
• Wear a padded bra to add volume in your bust line
• Layer on top to create curves
• Avoid wearing tops dead straight from neck to hemline without any volume or layers or details

b. Full Bust

• Wear lower and wider necklines e.g. scoop, square or V- necks
• Make use of a well fitted bra to lift the bust and create more space between bust and waist
• Keep the attention to your décolleté line e.g. embellishments and necklaces

c. Big Calves

• Wear your skirt/dress hemline on your thinnest part of your leg line e.g. below knee or ankle length
• Wear medium to chunky heels to balance with your big calf
• Opt for straight or boot cut in your trousers instead of narrowing leg line
• Avoid any bulk and detail in this area e.g. finishing hemline, short boots, buckles on your boots, ankle straps, kitten heels
• Don’t wear mini skirts or short trousers or Capri trousers

d. Double Chin

• Wear lower and wider necklines
• Wear clean and clutter free tops around your neck
• Avoid turtle or cowl necklines, ruffles, neck tie, rolls, turtle neck and short necklaces

e. Tips for Broad Shoulders

• Wear  lower wider necklines e.g. scoop or V- necklines
• Avoid halter necks-, boat or bardot-, turtle-, roll- or any necklines that add bulk and volume
• Avoid too much padding and big wide collars in your shirts or tops
• Avoid lapels that are too narrow or too wide
• Avoid wearing big shawls on your shoulder
• Avoid any shoulder details

Click here for more information how to create visual balance.

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Have a nice day,

Michaela