“Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly”
Epictetus
Dating back to the late 1800s, the capelets developed from the traditional full cape cut off just past the shoulder to accommodate and accentuate women’s waists and hips.
More feminine tastes came to the fore in the early 1900s as sumptuous fabrics such as lace and fur were used so that the design became a more decorative piece.
In the 1920s delicately beaded, sheer capelets become more the trend for a slim, unfussy silhouette. The 1940s and 1950′ were more influenced by fur stoles.
This season all style types of capelets joint forces, so that the fashion landscape for capelets varies from beads to fur to collar to stole to cropped jackets to sequins to cashmere in classic or bright collars.
Capelets are transforming instantly any outfit and can be worn over a turtleneck jumper or blouse or dress. They are a fantastic cover ups for dressy events and festive seasons especially for strapless tops and dresses.
Some words of wisdom here:
Triangles should avoid this fashion trend. It just accentuates their broader shoulders.
Super for Pears to add volume to the top- no matter what you wear.
They work beautifully for apples and full hourglasses, just make sure you don’t add clutter and volume to the bust and keep them cropped rather longer to the waist.
Lean Columns and Rectangle should opt for rounder shapes around the bust line, so that add curves to their body shape.
A fantastic way to cover up bigger arms, but avoid dropped or batman sleeves and make sure they cover you up to your elbow.
We are talking coats of many colours, cuts and shapes- from lady like strict tailoring to military, bright to neutral shades, slouchy and fitted to volume in shapes, statement coats to belted wraps, camel, patterned and tweed, wide or high collar, neutral or bright.
It might seem at first that there is no common theme among them, but you will find that the big fashion trends this season are buttons and wide or high collars or both or even all of them together.
So, how do you find your coat (s)?
Though it seems that there is an endless choice (at first) and making the right choice might look daunting to choose the right one (s) – especially now that it is getting cold and with the festive season ahead of us. But on the second glance the choices for your coat (s) can be narrowed down easily
You want to make sure that the coat you choose is versatile for different occasions and works not only for your life style and personality, but also works for your body shape and colouring. Remember the coat should complement you and make you look and feel good. It is not about having the latest but having something that works for you.
Coat style tips for this season:
High Collars: Not a good look for women who have short necks and a bigger bust. But is great for women who have a shorter body to create the illusion of a longer torso- as long as the neckline is clutter free! Therefore it is fantastic one for women who have a long thin neck. They can take the clutter in any given way.
Wide collars: A big no no to women who have a big bust, who have a short body and longer legs. Women who are apples and inverted triangles should stay clear of this style. Full hourglass should be extra careful by choosing this style. Also, not a wise choice for short women it will visually shorten them if the collars are to chunky or made too much of a feature.
Belted Coats: Belts need a waist. They need to lay into your waist and not wrap around a not existing waist. It is really not a good look and not an option for rectangles. Though lean columns have a similar shape as rectangles, but their body is more petite in build. That means if they go for chunkier & looser belted coat versions e.g. wraps they will create the illusion of a waist, because the extra volume of the coat will “build” up above the belt. Also women who have an apply body shape should stay absolutely clear of belted coats version, because it will right sit on their fullest part of the body and highlight that part in the most unflattering way.
Military Coats: It is a great style for those who need attention on the upper body e.g. pears, small busted, long waisted women but it is absolutely the wrong choice for those who don’t need the attention there e.g. inverted triangles, women with a big bust, short waist or short neck. It is just too much detail and details need space to breath and come to light.
Shoulder Details: Is a big feature this season and therefore it can be found in many different styles & designs on coats. Again this is great for those who can take the attention. It is adding volume and therefore a fantastic feature for lean columns, pears and neat hourglass. Rectangles have to be a bit more careful by choosing designs that adds roundness to their visual balance and not make them look more “edgy”. Unfortunately this trend is not good news for inverted triangles and apples- it is just too much attention and clutter for these shapes to cope with.
Patterns: They are great if they work and you choose the right ones. It can be a bit of a tricky on! You need to know your body shape, proportion, height and scale to make the right decision. In general patterns or colour blocks should be only worn on body features that are flattering on you. They create attention to this part, so you need to make sure you can take it. If you are a lean column or a rectangle opt more for “rounder” patterns e.g. florals, dots but stay away of horizontal strips in your waist area ( similar concept to belts) and also from “edgy designs and graphics”. While women with “rounder shapes” e.g. apples and full hourglass should opt instead more for abstract & edgy designs ( obviously at the right places only!). Pears should be wearing patterns only on the top, while inverted triangles should do exactly the opposite.
Buttons: Buttons as any other of the details mentioned above need space to come out to shine. So, the longer and leaner your body the more buttons you can take and vis versa. If you have a shorter body and longer legs or are an inverted triangle so keep the to your lower and not upper part. If you have a longer body and shorter body make sure your buttons don’t go any lower than your mid waist. Otherwise it will even more emphasise your longer upper and shorter lower. Empire styles are a great choice here. Women with a small chest will have a field day with this trend. Now who should opt for double breasted, single breasted or just single button coats? Double breasted are great for those who have space on the upper part, but no good for bigger busted women, apples, short/body long legs, short women and full hourglasses need to be extra careful here. Double breasted are super for tall women, small busted, long body/ short legs. Rectangles and lean columns’ need to make sure that their double breast coat will come with features that adds roundness and softness to their frame e.g. big lapels, chunky collars, volume in its sleeve line. Super as well for pears but not any lower as mid waist- anything lower and you enter the “no fly zone”! Single breasted are good for everyone depending on the pattern, shape and cut. Lean columns should stay away from tailored cut since it will make them look even leaner and longer. Single breasted is as well a much better choice for women who have a fuller top. But apple shapes should opt for the one or two button types that sits under the bust and over their tummy.
Sleeves: Women with fuller upper part as inverted triangles, full hourglass and apples need to opt for clean cuts in their sleeve line- no volume or clutter. It will just make them fuller. Great for pears to balance out their smaller upper part. Puffs, volume, wider sleeve lines are also good for rectangles and lean columns to add a visual roundness to their shape.
Fashion is architecture: It is a matter of proportion
Coco Chanel
Make the most out of the new season’s knits. The big cardigan is the new cover up and the waist belts will give you an edgy layer look.
Some quick guidelines how to keep the look in the moment:
Mismatched texture and fashion style- contrast is key
Multi layers for the oversized look ” a la just have thrown these clothes on”- Allow layers to peek out, combined with cheerful or icy colours in order to keep the look sharp. Be careful you don’t look messy, uncoordinated and unproportional.
Layer over coloured tights, funky leggings, skinny jeans.
Make sure that your knitwear looks current in order to avoid a dated and dull look
Also, please caution this oversized, layered look is not best for women who are apples, full hourglasses, pears, big busted, non balanced in proportion.
But here are some ideas how to enjoy your knits for any body shape. Keep your dominant colour as well in check for maximum impact!
“There is no such thing as an ugly woman- there are only the ones who do not know how to make themselves attractive”.
Christian Dior
From slate to cloud to dark charcoal- the new greys can be found in any clothes item.
Many of us are shying away from grey- because it can look quickly aging, boring and will show bad quality in fabric in comparison to black, dark navy or purple. But it is a fantastic basic and neutral colour for any outfit, occasion or personality if you know what to do and what not to do. Grey is not as forgiving as black and has to be handled with care and thought when dressing yourself.
Grey is the colour of teamwork, agreement, and passivity. In a darker charcoal shade, grey is a true power colour. In a lighter shade, it becomes more relaxed. Grey is a good choice for people in sales, banking, or finance and it is ideal in combination with other colours to personalise according to colouring, body shape, scale and proportion. However, grey is not a colour to be worn on its own – it will make you look “robot like” ie lacking any own personality…
Grey is a great alternative for those who should not wear black near the face
Don’ts
Dressed all in grey in a corporate environment can send the message you are lacking of imagination and personality.
Same goes for combining grey with white or ivory or black.
Avoid wearing different shades of greys in different outfits together – it can work, but very rarely and it is so easy to get wrong.
Don’t combine grey with any soft or mudding colours- it looks aging, your look will be dated and overall it won’t give you a confident boost wearing your grey.
Never ever wear a washed out grey in any of your garments. Remember grey shows quickly bad quality and together with a washout tone…let’s not go there!
Does
When wearing grey from top to toe e.g. coat, dress, suit remember it needs a sharp or /and tailored look.
Grey needs colour- a strong dynamic bright colour. You can choose a dramatic look, but you can also be subtle in your choice. Important is that you have focus point and your look looks energetic, fresh and modern.
Studs and Sequins are fantastic ways of adding an edge, glamour and sparkle to your outfit. They are especially great when wearing them in or with grey knitwear. It will transform your look instantly.
Grey can look nice with beige, but remember keeping it sharp e.g. with a white blouse. Add personality with a statement accessories, so you look will look sleek and elegant rather dull and dowdy.
Mix match your grey with different fabrics or fashion.
A little advice here- grey looks best when you are groomed. Too much make up & big hair and it will remind everyone quickly of the 80ies and will just drain you. Even if you wear a strong colour in your grey look- the colour needs to be balanced with a groomed understated look.
Grey and lipstick- you can say the more grey or neutral your outfit & look is the stronger and bolder you can be in your lipstick choice.
Keep our body shape, height and proportion in mind when choosing your grey and when combining it with a dynamic colour. Darker greys are more slimming and will make you look more taller. When accessorising grey with a dynamic bright colour keep in mind to choose a ” positive “body feature that will make you feel comfortable and confident to show off by creating a focus point.
Last not least Grey makes a fantastic investment buy!
Here are some ideas what to buy in Grey and how to mix match them:
Black is one of the most popular colours to wear, especially in the UK. It is the favourite colour for investment buys such as a suit, coat or the famous little black dress and can make the wearer feel sophisticated, elegant, sexy or edgy. Unfortunately, contrary to popular belief, it’s not the most flattering colour on everybody – not everyone can wear black as a solid colour or near the face. The younger you are, the more you can get away with wearing black since youthful skin will always provide a nice contrast to black. But once you’re in your twenties when skin and features are get softer and you’re starting out in your first job it will start to matter. This is when you need to know how to make black work for you, whether it’s in your colour palette or not.
Here are some colour combinations listed with some possible interpretations:
Light
Black is not in your palette but it can create a striking contrast if you have ash-blond hair. The secret is to keep black away from your face by choosing open necklines and wearing one of your key colours near your face. Softer fabrics like knits, jerseys, tweeds, corduroys and silks will absorb the light and soften the effect of the black. Your little black dress should be strappy or have a plunging neckline. Wear it with a coloured necklace or drape a scarf in one of your colours across your shoulders. Don’t overpower your look by wearing a strong lipstick and heavy eye make up unless you’re going to a glamorous event.
Deep
Black is a major part of your wardrobe and looks good on its own. Whether you wear black for work, at the weekend or to a party, the choice is yours, because it will always work for you. You can choose black in any fabric or texture, from leather to fine chiffon, as long as the garment is in the right style for your body shape, scale and proportion.
Warm
Black is not your best colour and therefore not in your colour palette. For best results combine black with one of the warm colours from your colour palette and wear black away from your face. If you wear black on its own, choose a low neckline, or wear a coloured scarf or necklace to help lift the black. Also note that softer or textured black fabrics will be more flattering, as this type of material absorbs light, making the black appear softer. Avoid the temptation to team it up with white.
Cool
Black is a key colour in your palette. You may wear it with many other colours but watch out – it may also cast a dark shadow under your chin, in which case avoid wearing black directly under your chin. Also, wearing black in a soft weave e.g. tweed, velvet or knit will absorb the light and therefore look less harsh on you. Try to brighten up your black with sparking jewellery or metallic accessories.
Clear
Black looks striking against the strong, dark tones of your hair and sparkling eyes and is one of the main colours in your palette. Your personal colouring is contrasting so having contrast in your clothing is key. Black is a fantastic colour to bring out the contrast by combining it with bright, light or unrelated colours e.g. red, white. Also, a black and pure white combination is always a stunning combination for day and night, on any occasion.
Soft
Black is not in your palette and should be worn always away from your face. Choose fabrics that are textured or soft, so the black is less harsh. Your little black dress needs to be soft and draping, with a low or plunging neckline to which you can add jewellery or a scarf, to distract from the black near your face. A dress that’s low cut, off the shoulder or sleeveless will be a better choice than anything with a high neckline because it puts enough space between your face and the dress.
Michaela Jedinak is the founder of Joy of Clothes, the easy way to buy the clothes for you, your body shape and your colouring . She is also the founder of Joy of Colour one of the leading colour and style consultancies click here to read full bio
