Archive for the ‘Proportions’ Category

Hat to toe!

Headwear is definitely heading upwards and high street shops are full of caps, baker-boy hats, cloches, trilbies, wide brims and eyecatching feathered headpieces or for the ones playing safe: fascinators. Adding a headpiece to your outfit will always add personality, an edge, drama or glamour.

Fresh Faced Karolina Kurkova All Smiles Sunday morning!

Therefore there are a few things to consider before choosing your perfect hat type and shape in order to achieve visual balance, harmony and the wanted impact!

  • Face shape

First of all: Your hat has to match the proportion of your face! Important here is that you don’t follow  the shape of your face as you do with your body shape, but instead you have to go opposite! Meaning if you have a round face you don’t want make it look any more rounder by choosing a round shape but you want to balance it out with a more “squarish” style.If your face is square instead you need to choose styles that are  “softening” the edges in shape and style. Choose round or asymmetric shapes and maybe feathers, flowers or bow accessories that add as well a visual softness and movement to your square face shape!

Round Face shape:

Square Face shape:

Secondly the size of your hat matters for the size of you head in order to create harmony and visual balance!

You will be wearing your hat quite close to your face and so the hat will draw attention to the features of your face. If your face is small, you should wear a small hat otherwise as it will be overpowered by a big hat. If your face is wide/ big, your hat should have a wide brim to match its size.  Otherwise a small hat on a wide face will make the face just look wider and bigger.

  • Body size

Keep your body size in mind when choosing your hat. If you are short then stay away from wide hat shapes since they will make you look even shorter. You need to opt for styles that will give you visual height. Therefore choose ones that don’t have a dominant brim to the side or to the front but have “ height” on top of the head. Also, stay to solid colour rather choosing patterns in your hat, because the busy style on your head is adding volume and shortens your height visually.

If you are tall the complete opposite applies. Avoid any style that make you even taller, but choose styles that are wide and/ or busy with colours and patterns.

If your body size is plus size avoid any styles and patterns in your hat that look petite, because it will create an unwanted contrast and will emphasize your body size. Choose chunkier styles, shape and patterns.

If you are petite in your size the opposite will be here the right choice.

But having said this “ an oversized” look is right now very much on trend, so petite will be getting away with it as well. Just be careful that the hat is not to overpowering your look, shape and size where one feels you need “ grow into it!.

  • Dominant Colour

A hat is close to your face, so the right colour or colour combination is important. So, make sure it is matching your dominant colour. Also, you need to remember that large brim will reflect the colour of your hat on to your face. So, make sure that it doesn’t clash with your skin colour.

  • Neck size

If you have a short or short/wide neck then keep in mind that hat styles such as the cloche, summer hats with long wide brims or hat details like e.g. ribbons or feathers will make your neck look “visually” even short because it will pull your face down right on to your shoulders!

  • Match your outfit

Matching the style of your hat to the style of your outfits is just as important, because it is pulling everything together.  Nowadays you don’t need to go matchy matchy in style or colour but it has to sum up or add personality to your outfit.

Click here for hat types and shapes

So, let’s say the following:

1. Try to avoid to match exactly your hat’s material with the material of your outfit. You may end up overdoing the look.  Important is that it is “picking” up on it either in colour, pattern or style!

2. If you are wearing solid colour or a classic style in your outfit then it gives room for e.g. a printed, patterned hat that combines together the colours you are wearing. Or you could as well opt for a hat that creates contrast to the colours of your outfit.

3. Playing with contrast in style is as well a way to go by e.g.  wearing a “ man’s hat” like newsboy, trilby, panama or fedora hat.. You can soften the look by choosing this hat in softer colours, choosing a more feminine outfit or accessorising it with feminine earrings or necklaces .And of course, a dash of  lipstick and lengthening mascara will do as well the trick.

4. Going for a casual look with just jeans and a plain T-shirt? You can dress up your denims by wearing a hat but remember the style of your hat type needs to be either casual or “ man type of hat” You can’t really combine it with a cloche, pillbox or a top up.

5. Before you are sure of your style play safe in order not attract the wrong kind of attention. But please do experiment with the kinds and styles of hats that you may want to match up with your outfit before, because it is absolutely crucial and of essence that you feel comfortable in wearing your hat. Meaning you should not only be comfortable wearing the right shape, colour and shape but also it has to fit your size and the occasion! Wear it in (at home) before wearing it out for the first time. Walk around the house in it – and into the garden. You can also check for problems. Does it fit well? Is it going to blow off? If you’re worried, sew a comb in the back which can attach to your hair or use hair grips.

  • Wear it right

There’s no right or wrong way to wear a hat.  However when women push their hat right to the back of the head it doesn’t always look the most flattering. So, experiment not only with the right fit in shape and comfort but also where to place/ position your hat on your hat before stepping out. Place your hat on in front of the mirror then move it around until you get the most attractive and most comfortable angle.

  • Little things to keep in mind

1. Greeting

If you are attending an event where you need to greet a lot of people because e.g. you are the host or the mother of the bride a wide brimmed hat can make kissing tricky!

2. Consider the weather and the season

If you attend an event outside and you can expect windy condition a wide hat is not the wisest choice here since it will be harder to keep in check even with the most sophisctated tricks in the box to keep it put.

3. Don’t over accessorise

If you wear a statement hat don’t overplay it by wearing everything you got in scarves, earrings, necklaces. Remember that you need space, so that styles and details work altogether. Otherwise you look just too cluttered on top.

4. Occasion

We have been all there. Attending a sit down meal and having our neighbours hat banging against our face, or being at church and getting other people’ feathers in your face or attending an event and being prevented of any view in front because the woman in front of you is wearing such a big headpiece. So, after all the effort choosing the right hat you don’t want to turn it all to nothing by getting it wrong for the occasion, because it is nuisance to others. Consider always the circumstances- and make sure you are prepared either by being able to take it off- with the thought in mind your hair style is not going to let you down or your outfit is going into pieces, because it is loosing its “ wow effect”. If the hat is an essential part of your look that pack always 2nd smaller option  for the more trickier times- just swamp back and forth.

5. Glasses

If you wear glasses make sure that the hat is not overpowering it.

Choosing the style, colour and shape that’s right for you and your outfit, isn’t difficult if you know how – but it takes time and strategy!

Easier options are the headbands and facinators. In short make sure that they suit your hair colour, complement your outfit and look proportional to your body size.

Michaela

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Create Body Balance!

A visually balanced body, regardless of weight or height, always looks more flattering than an unbalanced one.

Creating perfect proportions can be achieved by modifying the lines of clothing. In this way you can visually e.g. widen narrow shoulders, create a longer neckline, disguise a fuller tummy or lengthen a short waist. It is possible to appear taller, shorter, heavier or thinner by making the line, style and cut work to your best advantage.

Your bodyshape, proportion, scale and body features e.g. small bust versa big bust; short versa long neck will determine which clothing line and details, such as neck-sleeve-waist-hemlines, will flatter you the most. By looking at your build objectively you will know how to dress your body and how to emphasize your advantages and hide your disadvantages. Every person has their own unique DNA, so accept your differences in build to others and see them instead as a challenge to create your own personal style.

So, for those of us who don’t have a perfectly balanced figure ( hourglass bodyshape/ upper and lower body in proportions) there are ways to give an illusion of balance. To achieve this we need to understand “line design”. A line leads the eye and can give optical illusion for our benefit.

Design lines in our garments need to complement our figure shape. So, a curvy figure looks more appealing with curvy design lines in the outfit rather than straight line, and a straight figure looks better in straight lines rather than curvy lines. All style lines need to lead towards a feature you want to emphasize, such as your waist or shoulders.

We often think that by wearing long loose jackets and tunics we will appear taller and slimmer- this is not so for everyone. A horizontal line can make us appear shorter and the nearer it is to your knees the shorter we look. For example if you are a pear shape, try on some short fitted jackets and see how much longer your legs appear and how much taller and slimmer you look. In many cases loose flowing garments will achieves the opposite by adding pounds instead of slimming our silhouette.

1. Body Balance rules in general

Do’s

  • For your body to look balanced your shoulders need to appear balanced with hips and thighs.
  • Wear garment design lines to complement your figure shape
  • To balance a long waist wear a belt, a wrap, Empire line, details to shorten it
  • To balance a short waist be choosy and careful with wearing fuzz and buzz such as belts, bows, highlighted Empire lines- less is better or even none of it.
  • Wear a tone in tone outfit to give the illusion of height.
  • Break the colour when you are tall

Don’ts

  • Avoid jacket hems finishing at your widest point e.g. hips or thighs. Your best length is above or below this level.
  • Avoid skirt/dress hems finishing at your widest point e.g. calves, unless you have very thin legs.

2.A few balance rules to:

A. Small Bust

  • Add details around neck and bust line e.g. necktie, cowl neckline, ruffles, pockets, prints, layers, scarves, dropped sleeve line
  • Wear a padded bra to add volume in your bust line
  • Layer on top to create curves
  • Avoid wearing tops dead straight from neck to hemline without any volume or layers or details

b. Full Bust

  • Wear lower and wider necklines e.g. scoop, square or V- necks
  • Make use of a well fitted bra to lift the bust and create more space between bust and waist
  • Keep the attention to your décolleté line e.g. embellishments and necklaces

c. Big Calves

  • Wear your skirt/dress hemline on your thinnest part of your leg line e.g. below knee or ankle length
  • Wear medium to chunky heels to balance with your big calf
  • Opt for straight or boot cut in your trousers instead of narrowing leg line
  • Avoid any bulk and detail in this area e.g. finishing hemline, short boots, buckles on your boots, ankle straps, kitten heels
  • Don’t wear mini skirts or short trousers or Capri trousers

d. Double Chin

  • Wear lower and wider necklines
  • Wear clean and clutter free tops around your neck
  • Avoid turtle or cowl necklines, ruffles, neck tie, rolls, turtle neck and short necklaces

e. Tips for Broad Shoulders

  • Wear  lower wider necklines e.g. scoop or V- necklines
  • Avoid halter necks-, boat or bardot-, turtle-, roll- or any necklines that add bulk and volume
  • Avoid too much padding and big wide collars in your shirts or tops
  • Avoid lapels that are too narrow or too wide
  • Avoid wearing big shawls on your shoulder
  • Avoid any shoulder details

Click here for more information how to create visual balance.

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Have a nice day,

Michaela

Monday, March 1st, 2010