Cold weather and the festive season coming closer we turn to our coats for making a fashion statement either in colour or style. Every coat has its own characteristics and needs to be matched to the right body shape in order to guarantee the right match and look visually balanced. So, when choosing your coat make sure that the colour, style and shape works for you and not against you. A coat is a coverup and it should fit and complement your silhouette like a glove. So, before you follow fashion trends know your body shape first and then go shop hunting. Don’t get sidetracked by falling in love with a coat style and look that doesn’t match your body shape or because your friends and colleagues love and wear them. Stay true to yourself ” dare to be different”.
Fashion comes and goes but Style is eternal! Yves Saint Laurent
1. Inverted Triangle Body Shape
Coats that are “simple in style ” on top and get more dramatic from the waist line downwards. Hip details and and asymmetric hemlines or colour blocks are are ideal.
2. Lean Column Body shape
Clutter and details on top and lower part are best here. Oversized,double breasted and down coats are good for giving you a shaped waist and curves.
3. Rectangle Body shape
Create the illusion of a waist and roundness. Single breasted and asymmetric styles are great choices.
4. Apple Body Shape
Choose coats that have shoulder details and hang loosely fitted from the shoulders downwards.
5. Pear Body Shape
Choose styles that keep details and attention to the top and go quieter downwards. Hooded styles, wide lapels and colours are ideal.
6. Neat Hourglass Body Shape
Choose what you like best since you can wear any style.
7. Full Hourglass Body shape
Opt for fitted styles that follow your body shape . Avoid any clutter – you don’t need it.
Black is one of the most popular colours to wear, especially in the UK. It is the favourite colour for investment buys such as a suit, coat or the famous little black dress and can make the wearer feel sophisticated, elegant, sexy or edgy. Unfortunately, contrary to popular belief, it’s not the most flattering colour on everybody – not everyone can wear black as a solid colour or near the face. The younger you are, the more you can get away with wearing black since youthful skin will always provide a nice contrast to black. But once you’re in your twenties when skin and features are get softer and you’re starting out in your first job it will start to matter. This is when you need to know how to make black work for you, whether it’s in your colour palette or not.
Light
Black is not in your palette but it can create a striking contrast if you have ash-blond hair. The secret is to keep black away from your face by choosing open necklines and wearing one of your key colours near your face. Softer fabrics like knits, jerseys, tweeds, corduroys and silks will absorb the light and soften the effect of the black. Your little black dress should be strappy or have a plunging neckline. Wear it with a coloured necklace or drape a scarf in one of your colours across your shoulders. Don’t overpower your look by wearing a strong lipstick and heavy eye make up unless you’re going to a glamorous event.
Black is a major part of your wardrobe and looks good on its own. Whether you wear black for work, at the weekend or to a party, the choice is yours, because it will always work for you. You can choose black in any fabric or texture, from leather to fine chiffon, as long as the garment is in the right style for your body shape, scale and proportion.
Black is not your best colour and therefore not in your colour palette. For best results combine black with one of the warm colours from your colour palette and wear black away from your face. If you wear black on its own, choose a low neckline, or wear a coloured scarf or necklace to help lift the black. Also note that softer or textured black fabrics will be more flattering, as this type of material absorbs light, making the black appear softer. Avoid the temptation to team it up with white.
Black is a key colour in your palette. You may wear it with many other colours but watch out – it may also cast a dark shadow under your chin, in which case avoid wearing black directly under your chin. Also, wearing black in a soft weave e.g. tweed, velvet or knit will absorb the light and therefore look less harsh on you. Try to brighten up your black with sparking jewellery or metallic accessories.
Black looks striking against the strong, dark tones of your hair and sparkling eyes and is one of the main colours in your palette. Your personal colouring is contrasting so having contrast in your clothing is key. Black is a fantastic colour to bring out the contrast by combining it with bright, light or unrelated colours e.g. red, white. Also, a black and pure white combination is always a stunning combination for day and night, on any occasion.
Black is not in your palette and should be worn always away from your face. Choose fabrics that are textured or soft, so the black is less harsh. Your little black dress needs to be soft and draping, with a low or plunging neckline to which you can add jewellery or a scarf, to distract from the black near your face. A dress that’s low cut, off the shoulder or sleeveless will be a better choice than anything with a high neckline because it puts enough space between your face and the dress.
Each area of London has its own chic, look and style personality. They live, eat, drink, buy and listen to different music as well they have different style icons they look up to.
Here is a fashion compass of what to wear where from the East to the West, from the North to the South of London:
East London Girl
It it the living ground of creative minds like artists, architects, fashion designers, musos. The aim is to be someone with an individual look and their own unmistakable style personality. This is the group that starts trends. They have an undying love for printed T-shirts, leather or biker jackets.
Style Icons
Fashion buys:
West London Girl
Quite the opposite is here the case. Most important thing is to show and let everyone know that you are part of a selected group-”the it” group. It is the the playing ground of all ” limited editions” in fashion! Therefore you need to apply the key looks to be recognised as such- e.g.the glossy long hair, legs, latest “it” bag and sunglasses. This is the group that adds the polished “it” stamp on a trend.
Style Icons
Fashion buys
North London Girl Their look is dressed down, no fuss or attention seeking. It is about tuning in rather standing out- being part of a tribe. Though not recognisable from the outside the clothes are from expensive labels. It is about conscious living. Mantra: “A healthy mind lives in a healthy body”. This is the group that takes a trend to the “streets of London”- make it wearable in our daily lifes. They are inseparable from their skinny jeans, boots and trainers.
Fashion buys
South London Girl
Think bohemian, avant-garde fashion and vintage clothing. Retro is king and making it to your daily staple wardrobe is queen. Simply it is the breeding ground of the English eccentric. This is the group that mix matches old with new trends. Embellished tops, double breasted jackets or coats, floral print and horizontal stripes can be always found in their wardrobes.
Every year in spring we see the return of the Navy Trend, which goes as well by the names of the Marine or Riviera look or/and trend! This trend is so popular, because firstly it feels like a fresh brise after a long winter, secondly it reflects sun, summer and holidays and last but not least this trend is wearable by anyone no matter what the dominant colour, body shape or body size- or age! Obviously everyone has to pick the right colour combination for their dominant colour, the right style for their body shape and the correct proportions for their body size.
Yes, the military styling and chic has staying power and is one of the key trends this summer. Double breasted coats, buckles, camouflage prints, safari jacket, vests, and boots are the staples of this trend with strong shoulder shapes and button detailing- but not for everyone is the military look good news. Some will excel in this trend, others have to pick the right pieces that work for their body shape,- size and features. Others have to skip this trend altogether because the structure, detailing or colour simply doesn’t work for them.
Some tips how to wear it:
Military jackets have to sit straight. So, great news for the flat chested women- especially the higher the neckline. Therefore women with a bust should pass on this one. The shoulder details like straps and buttons are great for women with a long neck but bad news for the ones with a short and/or wide neck. It is great for pears, neat hourglasses and lean columns. While apples and inverted triangle should stay away from this trend.
Camouflage trousers or trousers with lots of zippers are fantastic for women who are tall have longs and small calves. These women can deal with all the details and additional volume to that part of the body. While short women, big thighs and big calves should never wear them. Inverted triangle, neat hourglass, lean column, rectangle are best suited to pull these features off. While a pear shouldn’t wear it since it adds more volume to their already bigger lower half and it is too much clutter for an apple though most of them have good legs. Since they have more volume on top they have to opt for “quieter” loose fit on their lower half.
Vests, jackets and coats can be single or double breasted. Double breasted are great for the small busted women while not at all for the ones who have a bigger bust. In general a double breasted jacket is ideal for pears, neat hourglass, lean columns while single breasted for full hourglass, rectangles ( double breasted types will make them look even boxier!) and apple should always avoid any buttoning in their tummy area.
The military trend comes mostly in nude, camouflage, white or blue colours. Clears and cools should opt for the navy and white options instead, while it will work great on the softs and warms. Lights will be quite flexible on any of these colours while the deeps need to ensure that they wear a deeper colour near their face.
White is always a spring/ summer trend. It never goes out of fashion. What changes is how you wear it, what you wear it with and which of the latest items you accessorise it with.
As secure and safe it might sound to buy white there are a lot of mine fields to step into. Many of us are so concerned with the latest fashion trends and items that a lot of us forget that a fashion trend doesn’t only have to suit your body shape, size and colouring but also the occasion, weather and season. You just can’t wear all the fun and colour of spring and summer when it is cold and raining outside. It makes you look sad and desperate and turns someone who is a fashion savvy into a fashion victim, because they can’t adopt to the weather condition. Fashion is only fashion when it not only looks right on you but also when you look comfortable and at ease. Something you never feel when trembling of being cold, getting wet and soaked because not dressed for it, getting all the dirt on your white outfit that comes with bad weather. White is a colour that requires sunshine to come out to its full potential- in cold or warm weather. Also, white only looks good when it looks white and clean otherwise you look very quickly shabby in your outfit.
A solid white outfit is not always a winner for everyone’s colouring;
Dominant Colour Light:
A fantastic choice. You can wear white from top to to if you like and if it is appropriate.
Dominant Colour Deep:
Not best to wear it as solid colour near your face, because it is too light for you and it will wash you out. Unless you wear your e.g. white top or shirt with a jacket or coat in a deeper colour. The deeper colour has always be stronger or in majority versa the white colour. Or to be sure keep keep the white to your lower half.
Dominant Colour Warm:
It is a bit of tricky one. If you got porcelain skin and red hair the pure white will provide a good contrast to your hair. But if you don’t have that type of skin it will easily clash with that and your hair together. Therefore you need to “warm” the white with yellow driven colours such as brown, green, orange, yellow, coral, tomato red etc- meaning you need to combine it with any of these type of colours when wearing white.
Dominant Colour Cool:
One of the best colour and absolutely must for this group. It will balance your white hair and make any outfit sharper- especially when wearing some nude/neutral colours with it.
Dominant Colour Clear:
As well one of the must colours for this group. It will almost always guarantee a contrast effect with any other combined colour.
Dominant Colour Soft:
White is an essential accent colour for this category to ensure that the overall look doesn’t look to muted.
Some adivce when buying your white item in question:
The white shirt: Always a winner no matter what age or season. It should be part of every woman’s wardrobe. A white shirt makes muddy/ nude colours look sharper and by wearing a cardigan, jacket etc on top of it you always can tune and soften the pure white to suit your colouring.
White top/ T- shirt are a must as the white shirt in a woman’s wardrobe. It is a great neutral weapon to dress up or down an outfit and will give any outfit always a lift. A classic that shouldn’t be missed in anyone’s wardrobe.
White Dress: Is a beautiful choice for a summer outfit. But be careful the more formal, elegant and in a maxi version the more festive it will look. Many times it looks like women are taking a wedding dress out for a stroll. Try to choose your white dress right for the occasion, in a style that can’t be mistaken for a wedding dress and/ or choose it with colour and a pattern combination or mix it up with accessorising it with an contrasting theme or style. Avoid to dress in white from head to toe unless the occasion requires it. Also, the older we get the less forgiving a pure white dress will look on us. I guess it goes with the territory ” not that innocent anymore…”.
White Jacket: As well a must for any woman’s wardrobe, but should be worn only in sunshine or in a warm climate. Not only one looks being on the wrong side of the planet but also the whole look can you turn look naff.
White Coat: Always a favourite for the summer! But proves in the UK not always a great investment buy since the sunny and warm days are here numbered. So, the more time you spend in a warm climate the better your money is spent on a white coat.
White trousers: Injects instantly elegance and chique to your outfit. It can be a one of your wardrobe heroes that you can’t live without it, but be careful since white trousers are not very forgiving when not having an easy body shape to dress. It brings always attention and adds additional “visual volume” to that part of the body. So, make sure you can take it. Also, ensure you wear the right underwear with it, because many times the colour, style and make of your underwear can be seen by anyone but you. Not a good look at all!
White shorts: It always brings a smile to our faces since it is always the synonym for sunshine, warm weather, fun, good time simply ” me time “. Watch out you got the right hemline for your thighs, calves and age. The thumb rule is the bigger and older they are the longer the hemline.
White skirts: Almost nothing makes an outfit as instantly girlie or feminine chique as a skirt- depending on its style. Most of the times they are not best to wear with tights, therefore they should be only worn with warm temperature, a hemline that suits the leg and occasion and in a style that works your age.
White shoes: Not always a hit. White pumps are best left for special occasions and white sandals and trainers are dirt sensitive. It is better to buy cheaper white footwear but two instead, so you have more and longer wearing the look before they look shabby. It is simply impossible to keep them out of any dirt, foot marks or scratches.
White swimwear: Looks great on young, toned or both body. Wearing a white swim wear gets you very quickly into dangerous waters with your skin, body and size and age. If in doubt just pass on this one!
White bags: As nice as they are in form of a clutch or shoulder or handbag or shopping bag they quickly pass their sell by date. They only wear with the right outfit, occasion, weather and also only when they are still completely untouched by any scratches and marks.
“I am against fashion that doesn’t last. I cannot accept that you throw your clothes away just because it is spring.”
Coco Chanel
Women will spend more than £1billion in the sales – on clothes they will never wear, research reveals.
In total, Britons spend some £4.1billion in sales on goods that are never used, at an average cost of £85.60 a person.
Women are the worst offenders, with 10 per cent of their average wardrobe consisting of clothes and accessories bought in sales but never worn – and more than half of the items still have the price tag on.
Some love sales – others hate it – some are impulse buyers – some spend more than they can afford.
No matter which group of shoppers you fall into – if you are somewhere in between – maybe it is time to have a more systematic approach or just keeping the following things in mind when you go shopping the next time.
Budget: How much can you spend per month?
It is not worth going overboard and being always in debt with your credit card. So, if you are an impulse buyer or someone who plans their shopping trip- know always how much you can spend when hitting the shops.
Investment buys- Classic clothing
Investment pieces or classic clothing will vary according to your life style and personality, but they are classic or investments buys because they can be worn most of the year – independent of which season- or which trend is dominating that year or season. They can be worn for years without looking dated! Important here is to keep focus on the quality and buy the highest you can afford. So, make the math here – how many times will you wear this item in that season – year – or years? The cost per wear is much lower – the more you wear something, the less expensive it becomes!
Shop only when you feel good about yourself
Hitting the shops when feeling low about yourself in order to do some shopping rehab ends up most of the times in a bad experience. You will be ending up buying just for the thrill but with any thought about it, so they joy will last only for a moment and the end will be even more depressing because you spend money on something you don’t want and will end up returning it in the end. Or you will end up even more depressed because you can ‘t find anything you like or you don’t like anything on you when you look at your image in the mirror. You are much better off buying yourself some nice chocolate to make you feel good. Dress comfortably
Don’t bother with a full make up or great hair do- it will just get in the way while trying on clothes – look nice and at ease with yourself. Also wear clothes that are easy to get in and out of otherwise you will start to loose interest of trying something on, because it takes too long or it is just to difficult to get out of your clothes. Don’t forget to wear as well comfortable shoes when going shopping – and take the shoes with you that you will be wearing with the garment your buying
Shop when the stores are least crowded
Some people can’t avoid to hit the shops when everyone goes because of work, kids or other commitments. But if you can try to go when less people are in the shops, so you don’t have to queue at the changing rooms, can move around the shops easily and see the garments in full display. Know the store’s return policy
Each store or department store has different return policy- some return your money and in others you just can exchange it for another garment. The normal return policy is two weeks, but can go up as well up to 30days. Be careful when shopping in sale, because most often they cannot be returned at all!
Shop only for things which work for you!
Know your colour palette, your body shape, scale and proportion, so that you know what fabrics, patterns and styles will look great on you. That doesn’t mean you should not experiment, but also you should be honest what works for your figure and colouring. Be true to yourself and shop for the body you have got and not the one you want! It is all about feeling good now in the clothes you buy and not when you will loose some weight then and there! It just will end up in tears because this garment will come with a “but” and will put pressure on you and so the beloved item will turn into a be hated one instead. Last but not least the clothes you buy need to be for real life- don’t try to buy items you might wear but don’t know yet or because they look so pretty but you won’t wear them so much because they might be not comfortable. Keep remember looking good is all about feeling good that means when you are in pain e.g. because trousers are too tight or heels are too thin then you don’t feel like yourself and therefore you don’t look yourself- it’s going always to show how comfortable you are in your clothes!
Items, which are always useful to have:
Click here to shop more for bargains-remember you will see all reduced prices once you clicked on the buy button and you are diverted to the retailers shop.
Metallic’s have become a must in everyone’s wardrobe and it is a great way to lift one’s outfit or mood at day or night. You can add shine by choosing clothes in fabrics such as sequins, metallics, lurex, studs or jewels. Anything goes – even for the day.
The trick for the day is to keep it to a small amount where the purpose is more to lift’s ones complexion. It should be used more as an accent “colour” rather to make a “shining “impression.
The best way to wear “Glam” and “Flash” now is to wear just one shiny piece-small or big- at a time. Remember that metallics draw attention to whatever body part you wear it on, because the light reflection will grab attention. So, make sure you are highlighting a flattering part of your body otherwise you will just achieve the opposite of “Glam”.
It can be at times quite challenging to keep the choice appropriate for the occasion ,current and right for your body shape.
Here are the top 3 tips how to wear them:
Keep it current by accessorizing your metallic’s with the right clothing that will neutralise the shine, so nobody will have flash backs from “80ies” when seeing you. Metallic tops or trousers look great with knits, T-shirt and jeans- mix match your look rather going for matchy matchy! Click here for more info
Know your personal colouring when choosing between silver & gold metallics. It can badly clash when choosing the wrong metallics too close to your face. Click here for more info
Body shape! Don’t be fooled by the item because it looks so nice, or it is the latest or everyone wears and has it who is hip and in. Highlight body features that can take the lime light. Remember metallics need space to shine and breathe, but they will also add “volume” to the part in question. So, make sure it highlights the best of you where you can take the clutter, volume and glam. Click here for more info
We are talking coats of many colours, cuts and shapes- from lady like strict tailoring to military, bright to neutral shades, slouchy and fitted to volume in shapes, statement coats to belted wraps, camel, patterned and tweed, wide or high collar, neutral or bright.
It might seem at first that there is no common theme among them, but you will find that the big fashion trends this season are buttons and wide or high collars or both or even all of them together.
So, how do you find your coat (s)?
Though it seems that there is an endless choice (at first) and making the right choice might look daunting to choose the right one (s) – especially now that it is getting cold and with the festive season ahead of us. But on the second glance the choices for your coat (s) can be narrowed down easily
You want to make sure that the coat you choose is versatile for different occasions and works not only for your life style and personality, but also works for your body shape and colouring. Remember the coat should complement you and make you look and feel good. It is not about having the latest but having something that works for you.
Coat style tips for this season:
High Collars: Not a good look for women who have short necks and a bigger bust. But is great for women who have a shorter body to create the illusion of a longer torso- as long as the neckline is clutter free! Therefore it is fantastic one for women who have a long thin neck. They can take the clutter in any given way.
Wide collars: A big no no to women who have a big bust, who have a short body and longer legs. Women who are apples and inverted triangles should stay clear of this style. Full hourglass should be extra careful by choosing this style. Also, not a wise choice for short women it will visually shorten them if the collars are to chunky or made too much of a feature.
Belted Coats: Belts need a waist. They need to lay into your waist and not wrap around a not existing waist. It is really not a good look and not an option for rectangles. Though lean columns have a similar shape as rectangles, but their body is more petite in build. That means if they go for chunkier & looser belted coat versions e.g. wraps they will create the illusion of a waist, because the extra volume of the coat will “build” up above the belt. Also women who have an apply body shape should stay absolutely clear of belted coats version, because it will right sit on their fullest part of the body and highlight that part in the most unflattering way.
Military Coats: It is a great style for those who need attention on the upper body e.g. pears, small busted, long waisted women but it is absolutely the wrong choice for those who don’t need the attention there e.g. inverted triangles, women with a big bust, short waist or short neck. It is just too much detail and details need space to breath and come to light.
Shoulder Details: Is a big feature this season and therefore it can be found in many different styles & designs on coats. Again this is great for those who can take the attention. It is adding volume and therefore a fantastic feature for lean columns, pears and neat hourglass. Rectangles have to be a bit more careful by choosing designs that adds roundness to their visual balance and not make them look more “edgy”. Unfortunately this trend is not good news for inverted triangles and apples- it is just too much attention and clutter for these shapes to cope with.
Patterns: They are great if they work and you choose the right ones. It can be a bit of a tricky on! You need to know your body shape, proportion, height and scale to make the right decision. In general patterns or colour blocks should be only worn on body features that are flattering on you. They create attention to this part, so you need to make sure you can take it. If you are a lean column or a rectangle opt more for “rounder” patterns e.g. florals, dots but stay away of horizontal strips in your waist area ( similar concept to belts) and also from “edgy designs and graphics”. While women with “rounder shapes” e.g. apples and full hourglass should opt instead more for abstract & edgy designs ( obviously at the right places only!). Pears should be wearing patterns only on the top, while inverted triangles should do exactly the opposite.
Buttons: Buttons as any other of the details mentioned above need space to come out to shine. So, the longer and leaner your body the more buttons you can take and vis versa. If you have a shorter body and longer legs or are an inverted triangle so keep the to your lower and not upper part. If you have a longer body and shorter body make sure your buttons don’t go any lower than your mid waist. Otherwise it will even more emphasise your longer upper and shorter lower. Empire styles are a great choice here. Women with a small chest will have a field day with this trend. Now who should opt for double breasted, single breasted or just single button coats? Double breasted are great for those who have space on the upper part, but no good for bigger busted women, apples, short/body long legs, short women and full hourglasses need to be extra careful here. Double breasted are super for tall women, small busted, long body/ short legs. Rectangles and lean columns’ need to make sure that their double breast coat will come with features that adds roundness and softness to their frame e.g. big lapels, chunky collars, volume in its sleeve line. Super as well for pears but not any lower as mid waist- anything lower and you enter the “no fly zone”! Single breasted are good for everyone depending on the pattern, shape and cut. Lean columns should stay away from tailored cut since it will make them look even leaner and longer. Single breasted is as well a much better choice for women who have a fuller top. But apple shapes should opt for the one or two button types that sits under the bust and over their tummy.
Sleeves: Women with fuller upper part as inverted triangles, full hourglass and apples need to opt for clean cuts in their sleeve line- no volume or clutter. It will just make them fuller. Great for pears to balance out their smaller upper part. Puffs, volume, wider sleeve lines are also good for rectangles and lean columns to add a visual roundness to their shape.
Michaela has a unique range of experiences from the fashion , media and design industry in London , New York , Milan and Prague . She was the MD of Cosmopolitan in Prague where she deepened her passion for colour and style. In 2005 she founded one of the leading colour and style consultancies Joy of Colour www.joyofcolour.com . Joy of Clothes aims to share her experience with a wider audience.
Michaela believes that everyone is different and they should build on their own unique DNA rather than try to be a bad copy of someone elses. Nowadays there are so many fashion trends co-existing that there is something suitable for everyone. Michaela advises against following every single fashion trend . Dressing with style needs strategy and an understanding of your colouring and body shape . Joy of Clothes aims to make it easy for you to identify the fashion that works for you and your life style.
